Photographing the gorillas in the mist
I was recently alarmed to read that Africa’s endangered mountain gorillas are also at risk from Corona Virus. Around 1,000 mountain gorillas live in protected areas in Congo, Uganda and Rwanda, for whom tourism is an important source of revenue to ensure their protection and survival. But COVID-19 has led to restrictive measures. Mountain gorillas are prone to some respiratory illnesses that afflict humans. A common cold can kill a gorilla, according to the World Wide Fund for Nature, one reason why tourists tracking gorillas are not normally permitted to get too close.
Rwanda, where I was lucky enough to trek to visit and photograph a family of gorillas, has temporarily shut down tourism and research activities in three national parks that are home to primates such as gorillas and chimpanzees.
The experience of trekking to visit the gorillas was definitely a pinch yourself life moment. The adventure started very early as we headed from our guesthouse in Musanze to the Virunga National Park. The national park is shared with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It was created in 1925 and is among the first protected areas in Africa.
On arrival at the park we were welcomed by traditional dancers and musicians – many of whom were formerly poachers who now benefit from tourism and work to protect the gorillas. Whilst we were mesmerised by their performances in the early morning mist our guide was busy negotiating with the head ranger which family of gorillas we would get to visit.
Our trek to the gorillas – who live in thick vegetation at altitude – saw us pass through traditional villages and on to the winding goat-like track up the mountain. All while our anticipation grew.
After an hour or so of trekking whispers passed through the group our arrival at the gorillas was imminent. (I am getting the same goosebumps as I did at that moment as I write this). As much as I was bursting with excitement I took a moment to catch my breath before stepping forward to see, there, right in front of me these magnificent creatures.
We were now in the presence of Umubano group. This group was once part of the Amahoro group, which split into two, Umubano being the smaller offshoot. Normally, in a group with more than one silverback, when the leader dies, the group is passed on to the next in line, and the members become his subjects. This was not the case with Charles, the Umubano leader. With a reputation as a rebellious teenager, after the death of the leading Amahoro silverback, Charles refused to submit to the next in line. Instead, he left the group with two females, forming one of his own. A young and ambitious silverback, he has been successful in maintaining his group and gaining more females in a short time. There are now 13 members in his family, and he, as the silverback, is the happiest and the strongest of them all.
Visitors are required to keep a distance of at least 7 metres away from the gorillas. This certainly made them perfect to photograph with my 80-200m lens. The first thing you notice is the gorillas are incredibly human-like (or rather we are very gorilla-like!) Photographing them was truly just like photographing people – I would wait for them to turn their faces across their bodies, the light to catch in their eyes and that was my moment to take the photo. My greatest challenge was to remember to not just experience the 1 hour we spent with the gorillas through the lens – as tempting as it was in the company of these incredibly photogenic subjects.
I hope you enjoy these images as much as I am thrilled to share them with you. Love, KJx
P.S. And my favourite moment? Almost impossible to choose but if I had to say it came right at the very end of our time with the group… Feeling desperate not to leave after hour hour-long encounter I was making my way out of the thick vegetation when I looked back over my shoulder to see the magnificent brother gorilla in the main photo of this journal entry curled up on a log sound asleep and dreaming. He almost didn’t look real. Just incredible!
Useful resource: I visited the gorillas with www.amahoro-tours.com who operate responsible echo tourism in Rwanda, Uganda and The Democratic Republic of the Congo. They were incredible hosts who helped us have an experience we will never forget.
Like to know more about this experience? Just contact me!
